After initial ambivalence about distinctive garb for
its ministers, early Christianity developed both
liturgical garments and visible markers of clerical
status outside church. From the ninth century, moreover,
new converts to the faith beyond the Alps developed a
highly ornate style of liturgical attire; church
vestments were made of precious silks and decorated with
embroidered and woven ornament, often incorporating gold
and jewels. Making use of surviving medieval textiles
and garments; mosaics, frescoes, and manuscript
illuminations; canon law; liturgical sources; literary
works; hagiography; theological tracts; chronicles,
letters, inventories of ecclesiastical treasuries, and
wills, Maureen C. Miller in Clothing the Clergy traces
the ways in which clerical garb changed over the Middle
Ages.Miller s in-depth study of the material culture of
church vestments not only goes into detail about craft,
artistry, and textiles but also contributes in
groundbreaking ways to our understanding of the
religious, social, and political meanings of clothing,
past and present. As a language of power, clerical
clothing was used extensively by eleventh-century
reformers to mark hierarchies, to cultivate female
patrons, and to make radical new claims for the status
of the clergy. The medieval clerical culture of clothing
had enduring significance: its cultivation continued
within Catholicism and even some Protestant
denominations and it influenced the visual communication
of respectability and power in the modern Western world.
Clothing the Clergy features seventy-nine illustrations,
including forty color photographs that put the rich
variety of church vestments on display.'' |
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